Okay, P.S. Post

  I want to thank everybody who read my blog while I was gone for their diligence and attention.  I had no way of knowing who read it or not, but nearly all of my friends and family read along while I was away.  Your thoughts and prayers for me kept me animated during even the toughest times of the trip and I couldn't have done it without you all.  I'm blessed to have taken such a fantastic voyage through space, and it makes me yearn to do it all over again.

  First, earn money.  Second, save money.  Third, buy plane tickets.  Fourth, quit my job and go away on another adventure.  Fifth, repeat.  Ha!

Love to all my life companions,

Brad

P.P.S.  You get special points if you're reading this post because everybody thinks I finished.  Actually I did too.

FINAL POST: Reflections on the Journey

FINAL POST

  I've now been back in Reno for nearly three whole days.  This will be my final post, and I hope it is enough of a climax for my dedicated readers.  The final thoughts on my trip live mostly in my head, and will continue to ripen as I proceed with the next chapter in life.  I've nearly finished getting used to life as it exists here in the U.S. again, but not quite.  Plus, I've begun the hectic race to become gainfully employed again, so no time to muse at the grand significance of the last three months in more than short spurts.  BUT, without further ado, here are the final thoughts from my first trip far, far away from home.

I.  Things I've learned or Things that have become true

- Reno is home.  The chances are good that I'll move off to work and live elsewhere and the chances are almost certain that I'll take more trips out of the country.  But whenever I say I'm going home, that's Reno.  I suppose I already knew that, but it was reaffirmed.

- Trips like this one are my newest budding addiction.  There is no doubt that I will continue to drop off the grid like that every year or every other year until I'm forced, by way of kids, a wife or another heavy obligation, to stop.

- I've learned a hundred examples of where to go and where to not return.  Definitely going back to Brazil another few times.  Chile was my favorite so far.  Perú was fantastic as well, although I will never return to Lima unless I'm forced to catch a plane to or from there.  Arequipa and Cuzco, Perú were great, but I don't think I feel the need to revisit Machu Picchu.  Maybe.

- I've learned what equipment is necessary and what is not.  I took way too many clothes and shoes, and ended up giving away two pairs of shoes, a jacket, some pajama pants and some shorts.  I took too much paper.  For some reason, I thought I'd be writing for at least an hour a day.  Granted, I had many ideas for writing material, but there just isn't time to long-hand them.  Just jot the idea, rough draft only, and save it for later.  Also too many books.  The backpack I took was adequate as far as storage space, but wasn't designed for the hours of carrying to which I subjected it.  Andy's Osprey backpack was rugged, huge, stood upright on its own, and had a perfect back and strap design for heavy duty use.

- On a similar note, I know what different things I would have brought.  Andy had the great idea of taking a GPS device, which is an idea I like.

- I learned, the hard way, that it pays to do research beforehand.  So that one doesn't get to Los Angeles and get sent back due to not having the correct visa, for example.

- I learned to, pardon the term, cut the crap.  I don't feel the need to play games with people, beat around the bush, hedge my comments with excessive politeness, or hide my feelings on a subject.  Especially with servers or people selling me things and services, I feel the need to assert my rights more than I ever did before.  If one gives an inch of leeway or weakness there, one gets ripped off nicely.  It's a little different here in the States, but the principle is the same.

- I feel much tougher, for lack of a better word.  I don't feel like I need privacy, toilet seats, quite place to sleep, a soft and comfortable bed, clean clothes, a clue as to where I am, a computer, television, constant involvement by others into my well-being, and lots of money.

- I've learned that books, musical instruments, playing cards, drawing, writing and socializing are much better than T.V. any day.

- Traveling is amazing.  Vacation is boring.  I'm not the type to go piss away six hours drunk on a beach and just sit poolside.  I want to get up and see things, meet people, and go into the local bars and not the tourist-friendly ripoff bars.  I always prefer to walk rather than be driven somewhere and it's always a better experience to do things the unconventional way.  In short, you won't find me in Cancun or Cabo San Lucas anytime soon. 

II.  Things I will dearly miss:

- Obviously, having no punch card or boss is nice.  No agenda, no obligations, only opportunities to explore and learn.  

- Having no cell phone.  After only two days back in Reno, I already hate my cell phone.  For the first week in Brazil I had "phantom" cell phone syndrome where I thought I felt a vibration in my pocket.

- I'll miss the way people live very intimately in the places I visited.  The quarters are closer, the families often live all together with three generations, and neighbors all seem to be in business together.  Men meeting each other either hug or embrace hands and arms with both sides, and women meeting kiss both cheeks of the other.

- The crazy, living streets of Brazil.

- The amazing mix of cultures in Brazil.

- The sensational, fit, tan bodies of Brazilian women.

- The ocean (it doesn't matter which one, i saw them both).

- Being exhausted from trying so hard to understand Brazilian Portuguese.

- Knowing with unfailing certainty that I will sleep soundly all night.

- Getting stared at.

- Everything being so cheap, especially the ice cream, the late night burgers, shish kabobs, sausage french fries, and the beer.

- Not having to drive, I loathe traffic.

- The fruit.

- The many delicious foods I ate while there.  Ceviche, açaí, cupuaçú, acarajé, farofa, empanadas, menus completos, arroz con mariscos (seafood rice), and many others.

- The bakeries that bake hundreds of smaller loaves of bread or individual pieces so that one doesn't have to buy plastic-wrapped, pre-sliced loaves.

- The many cocktails and snacks I tried.  Caipirinhas, Cachassa, Caipiroskas, Chilean wines, Inca Cola, chicha blanca, and many others.

- Chilean Spanish.

- Being a minority.

- Being a guest.

- Not knowing a single person in a new town.

- Learning my way around a big, new place and making it my neighborhood.

- Being a celebrity almost everywhere.

- Being taller than fully seventy-five percent of all the people.  Especially in Perú.

III.  Things I won't miss at all:

- Having to have my own toilet paper all the time.  Public restrooms charge a fee for their use and STILL there is no toilet paper sometimes.  Also, even though it's no big deal, I won't miss sitting on the can without a toilet seat.  I saw only one toilet seat in all of Perú.  

- Not being able to flush the paper.

- Cold showers, even in a hostel I had to pay for.

- Everybody calling me amigo (usually means they're trying to sell me something).  Sorry, guy, I'm not your friend.  I'm your total stranger and you're in my face.

- Getting stared at.

- Pickpockets.  In Brazil.

- Weird exchange rates and having to crunch numbers in my head to convert to USD.

- Being on a budget.

- Not earning any money, only spending it.

- Poor people on the streets holding out their hands and moving their mouths without making sound.  There's not even a back story or a sad sack story, they just bluntly want you to put money in their hand.  Come ON, at least say you have three kids to feed or your house was ruined by the earthquake or something.  Creativity is rewarded, lethargy is not.

- The bus stations and busses of South America (and their crummy, excessively loud movies, malodorous passengers, obnoxious children, pushy street vendors that are actually allowed on the busses to swarm you with snacks, and inept ticket salespeople).  

- Not getting to drive, I love driving.

- A total lack of hamburgers, burritos, Sam Adams, Fumé Blanc wine, Martinis, White Russians, Doritos corn chips, guacamole (that's right, no guacamole because no decent refrigeration almost anywhere we went), Brie and Gouda cheese, 

- Everything closes at 11:00.

- Not having my drums.

- Having a limited circle of friends.  Don't get me wrong, Andy and Pat are two extremely close friends.  Spending 8 weeks with only the same two people makes one anxious to mix it up with others.

- Good ol' English.

- The flies and the fleas of South America.  Vicious little blighters, aren't they?

- Not having nice clothes in which I can get dressed up.  I missed my ironed collared shirts and my suit SO much.

- Having to pay to use the internet.  Then when you're in there, the keyboards are terrible, the headphones rarely work, the internet is slow, and there are always kids in there playing some obnoxious online game and making way too much noise.

  If you want the Reader's Digest version of what I learned, here it is:  the world is big and life is short.  If one wants to be recognized, as I do, it takes tenacity and work.  No more sleeping in for me, I have things to DO, you know?  Eliminate TV, commit to a minimum of one hour a day of writing, reading, or learning, stay fit, practice Spanish and learn more Portuguese/Russian/Morse/Greek/Sign Language every day, stay in touch with my family and friends, and drop the bad habits of the past.  That's the plan.

  I've always enjoyed writing what's in my head, and it may one day become my fortune.  This blog has helped me keep it together sometimes and has helped me to remember everything.  The experience seems large and collective until I reread what I wrote.  It gave me a chore to do every day, which strangely enough I love.  It's impossible to know exactly how many people have been reading along with my journey, but I hope you enjoyed it.  I'm quite blessed to be able to do something like the travel I took, and I thank my family above all.  Especially my Mom and Dad.  Close your eyes after this sentence and visualize me licking my finger, opening my book of Life, and turning the page to the next chapter.  Chapter Five, Real Life.

Brad to the Bone, signing off.  May 1st, 2009.

BG

The Eagle has landed

It's been a 22+ hour day in taxis, airports and airplanes. But finally, a few hours ago Conrad picked me up from the brand new Indianapolis airport and whisked me back to the States mindset. We're all tuckered out tonight, especially after a few rounds of Halo 3, so it's off to bed. But everything's in English again and I have to relearn the keyboards. Tomorrow, I want to eat cottage cheese and either a big hamburger or a big burrito. Or two. And get a frosty Sam Adams. And we're also going to do some yard work, house projects, and/or go to the church so I can play drums there. Plans are by no means set in stone, but we'll do some verrrry important stuff for sure.
It feels really good to be back in the U.S. When I have time, I'll do more bloggin' for y'all, but now it's Dreamland Express Overnight for me. Sweet dreams, America.

Be Rad

Lima SUCKS

While nothing could spoil my trip entirely, Andy and I are definitely fed up with Lima. By far the worst city we've been to. I know my best friend is from here and all, but it's the truth. Today while we were at the internet cafe (in which I wrote the previous post) and getting lunch, the maid at our hostal went into our room to make the beds. While she was in there, she stole Andy's GPS device, worth about $100, and a really nice knife that I had. The GPS had many excellent locations like Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Antofagasta, and Machu Picchu marked and stored within. Also, in her search for money, she took a bunch of stuff out of my daypack and shuffled through my document sheath. When we got back to the room, I saw that my daypack was missing and instantly began to be worried and pissed. Normally I carry my passport everywhere on my person, but it was a brief outing and I thought it wasn't necessary to do so, so I left it in the pack. Of course the first symptoms of panic started when I thought I had my passport stolen no more than 36 hours prior to leaving the country. I went downstairs and explained what was happening to the old guy working at the desk and he came upstairs to walk through that morning with us. We had definitely locked the door when we left so it could only have been the maid. After storming around, my blood was beginning to boil and the discussion was also heated. Out in the hall, I spied the strap of my small blue backpack sticking out of the maid closet and opened it. Relieved to find my passport still inside, I calmed down a little bit. But everything inside had obviously been searched for money. Thankfully I had no cash at ALL in my stuff, it was all with me.
The catastrophe had been a false alarm, but then we found out that my knife and Andy's GPS were missing. Somehow, she missed the iPod sitting out on the table and the wad of US money in Andy's wallet in his bag, so it could have been much worse. We packed up our stuff and decided to leave, screw that place. Downstairs, she had just conveniently returned from her lunch break (and probably a trip to her house to stash her newly-stolen booty) and was talking with the old guy. I started shouting at her and explaining the situation and she, of course, denied everything with downcast stare. We demanded a refund and the old guy, to his credit, was very cool about everything and gave us our money back. Hopefully he fired that piece of trash.
THEN we spent the next hour in a taxi driving around to about ten hostals trying to find tonight's place to stay. All were full for a while until we found Hostal Texas. So we're there tonight, and I of course leave in the morning. Andy understandably wants to get into another neighborhood, and might actually return to Pisco to be with Pat since Lima is so unrealistically expensive. It's at least reasonably priced. The major trip on the agenda today was to go to the Lima International Airport and figure out how the flight process will work tomorrow and in 8 days for the other two guys. The cab to get there cost 30 Soles (the four hour bus from Pisco was only 13, mind you) and we pseudo-broke down on the way. What a gyp. Upon arrival, we cruised around inside the airport and found where to check in. THEN we learned that there is a 100 Sol exit tariff! That's more than $30 extra, just to leave this crappy city. $30 extra that I wasn't planning to spend. Arrrgh. So of course I had to withdraw more money from the ATM to have the funds lined up for the morning. And then we paid another 30 Soles to get back to our hostal. And I'll have to pay another 30 in the morning to get back, then begin my tragically long day of airport and airplane madness.
I'm sure I'll laugh about it in a month, but today isn't exactly the best day. In Perú, we've gotten sick, bitten by bugs, ripped off, robbed and lost. Good times as well, of course, but I don't think I'll be coming back to Perú as anxiously as the other countries I've visited on my next trips to this amazing continent. I'm already over it, I've never been one to pout or sulk, but it sucks that my last day was the worst one. Ho hum.
In exactly 12 hours, my plane from Lima to Bogotá, Columbia will leave. Until then, Andy and I will just take it easy and not tempt fate. No drinking tonight, except for maybe a cold farewell beer, and just hang out in the hostal. Perhaps reading. I have a lot of Shakespeare to memorize. From memory, I've got the following two things for you all. I love Romeo and Juliet so much. Othello is next, then Midsummer's Night Dream.
As promised, I'll still write the, how did I describe it, meditative reflection when I'm in Indiana this week. Within 36 hours, I get to see my cousin! Hooray!

Adios, amoebas. More to come.
B

Romeo:
But soft, what light through yonder window breaks?
It is the east, and Juliet is the sun.
Arise fair sun, and kill the envious moon
Who is already sick and pale with grief
That thou, her maid, art far more fair than she.
Her vestal livery is green and sick,
And none but fools do wear it. Cast it off!
Oh it is my lady. Oh, it is my love.
Oh, that she knew she were.
She speaks, yet she says nothing. What of that?
Her eye discourses, I will answer it.
I am too bold. 'Tis not to me she speaks.
Two of the fairest stars in all heaven,
Having some business, do entreat her eyes
To twinkle in their spheres til they return.
What if her eyes were there, they in her head?
The brightness of her cheek would shame those stars
As daylight doth a lamp. Her eye in heaven
Would through the airy region stream so bright
That birds would sing and think it were not night.
See how she leans her cheek upon her hand.
O, that I were a glove upon that hand,
That I might touch that cheek.

Also Romeo:
If I profane with my unworthiest hand
This holy shrine, the gentle sin is this...
My lips, two blushing pilgrims, ready stand
To smooth that rough touch with a tender kiss.

Next, I'm memorizing George Carlin's "Modern Man" skit to impress Conrad and a whole bunch more Shakespeare. Wish me luck and clarity of mind. Lllllllater

LIMA

We're here. Last night was pretty fun. Everybody told us that Lima's dangerous, but it seems just like the other cities we've been to: just gotta keep my cool and not do something stupid like walk into an unlit, grimy alley. It's actually quite nice. There are cool new plants everywhere and everything is very clean. Too bad I'll only be here a total of 37 hours. Nothing amaaaaazing to report. Our dinner of chicken and fries was sinfully delicious. We went out last night and met some cool folks at a nightclub/bar. We realized later that it was a gay bar in disguise, but nobody hit on us so we didn't know. Absolutely EVERYthing closes at night here and one is forced to rely on street vendors for late-night food and drinks. Our hostal is nothing special but costs more than twice as much as the Tauro hostal in Pisco where we were for the last week. Actually, it doesn't even have hot water and the other one had super hot water. We're not terribly happy with it, but after looking online for an hour last night, I couldn't find even one lead about a cheaper one. Meh, oh well. Big cities don't always win over small ones. This place has FAR superior internet shops than the others we've encountered in Perú, though. Last night I actually got to chat in real-time with my mom and some others online. Plus there are new video games on all the machines here and the cafes are always full of young guys killing eachother on web-based battlefields. Last night to treat ourselves, Andy and I got cups of real coffee. It's been at least two months since I drank a cup of non-dehydrated coffee. I am by no means a coffee kind of person, but it felt reeeeeally good to drink some quality brew.
My stomach is practically eating itself I'm so hungry. Gotta wait only one more hour until lunchtime. Maybe Chinese today. You can tell from the grave and important nature of what I'm saying that there's really not much going on right now. Just the last day in Limbo before I leave this Homeric quest for self-indulgence. Last night while chatting, Andy and I reflected on how weird it is to think that I'll be back in the U.S. within 38 hours. It was three months ago that I thought to myself, "weird, in less than 38 hours I'll be in Brazil." Now the tables have turned and the trip is over. It's a "whoa" from South America this time.
This post is going nowhere. Unfortunately, it will be one of the last. However, when I have down-time in Indiana while visiting my cousin Conrad in a few days, I'll post the meditative reflection on my long experience here for y'all. But for now, I need to distract myself by other means so I stop thinking about the delicious bowl of wonton soup and plate of noodles that awaits me in an hour. Mmmmm.
More to come, at least one more. Be patient, wish me luck in figuring out the massive Lima airport today and in either pulling an all-nighter or waking up on time to catch my 5:50 a.m. flight tomorrow. Either coffee or Benadryl, haven't yet decided :). Just kidding.

Later, guys and dolls.
B

Off to Lima AHORITA

We're headed to Lima in about 20 minutes. Thought y'all'd like to know. It's only about a three or four hour bus ride and I'll post more as I learn more. Tomorrow we have to go do battle with the Lima airport and get everything squared away for my crack-of-dawn flight on Friday morning. Should be a madhouse, but I love a challenge.

Bring it on, Lima. Adios, fans. Will write soon.

Golden B

The trip to las Islas Ballestas began today at 7:00. The morning was quite foggy, but it quickly became desert-like as we picked up other passengers in the van that sped us along a coastal highway to the pier. There, we became cattle in a sea of tourists waiting in line for the same tour as us. I always like to mockingly take pictures of them while they take pictures, and you'll see on my FaceBook album just how common that was over the following few hours.
The islands were quite amazing. I've never seen so many birds in one place before! It's like the New York of bird civilization. It wasn't exactly the Galapagos, as the Galapagos are home to something like 200 indigenous and unique species and the Ballestas are home to maybe 15, but it was still breathtaking the whole way. We saw at least 20,000 seagulls, pelicans, boobys, penguins, and stork-like birds, plus tons of crabs, urchins, barnacles, and starfish. We also crossed paths with at least 2,000 sea lions in small groups or in GIGANTIC colonies along the secluded beaches. The Ballestas are named after the "crossbow" due to all the stone arches in the area. I wish my camera did the distance shots more justice, but you can all still get the idea. The whole trip lasted about three hours and we got back to the pier in time to wade through the same ocean of tourists to a taxi. Back in Pisco, we ate some delicious soup and seafood rice at our new favorite lunch spot called Las 200 Millas cabana. The complete two-course and beverage meal costs 5 Soles, or about $1.50 and it's tough to finish it all. We already love the place.
The islands really showed me how thick the presence of life is in some places. The ocean is every different color with guano, feathers, seaweed, and nameless other organic slops and chunks. Every 4 years, the Peruvian government goes to the islands and harvests the tons and tons of guano there as a source of high-energy fertilizer. When the government first began doing so in 1940, the guano was 30 meters thick! I couldn't believe our guide when he said that, so I bade him to reiterate and I had indeed heard correctly. Seagulls sure know how to crap. Overall, despite being put off by being stuck in a giant crowd of bustling, rich tourists, we had a blast and drew some fine memories from the trip. The pictures can be seen at the link below. Plus, there are some of us leaving Cuzco and of Pisco. This city is a trip, I plan to do a full day of photos tomorrow if possible to show the destruction and former size/glory of the city. There are burned out buildings EVERYwhere.
This net café is one of the only ones here and it's getting crowded, so I'm leaving now. FIVE more days until I leave Perú. Holy jeez. Tomorrow it's off to buy a bus ticket to Lima. Bus details and further nonsense to follow. Thanks for reading, sshhh shhh shhh, it's almost over.

Outta heah,
Brad

Islas Ballestas pix:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2020326&id=1445169559&l=9a2b38a99b