The trip to las Islas Ballestas began today at 7:00. The morning was quite foggy, but it quickly became desert-like as we picked up other passengers in the van that sped us along a coastal highway to the pier. There, we became cattle in a sea of tourists waiting in line for the same tour as us. I always like to mockingly take pictures of them while they take pictures, and you'll see on my FaceBook album just how common that was over the following few hours.
The islands were quite amazing. I've never seen so many birds in one place before! It's like the New York of bird civilization. It wasn't exactly the Galapagos, as the Galapagos are home to something like 200 indigenous and unique species and the Ballestas are home to maybe 15, but it was still breathtaking the whole way. We saw at least 20,000 seagulls, pelicans, boobys, penguins, and stork-like birds, plus tons of crabs, urchins, barnacles, and starfish. We also crossed paths with at least 2,000 sea lions in small groups or in GIGANTIC colonies along the secluded beaches. The Ballestas are named after the "crossbow" due to all the stone arches in the area. I wish my camera did the distance shots more justice, but you can all still get the idea. The whole trip lasted about three hours and we got back to the pier in time to wade through the same ocean of tourists to a taxi. Back in Pisco, we ate some delicious soup and seafood rice at our new favorite lunch spot called Las 200 Millas cabana. The complete two-course and beverage meal costs 5 Soles, or about $1.50 and it's tough to finish it all. We already love the place.
The islands really showed me how thick the presence of life is in some places. The ocean is every different color with guano, feathers, seaweed, and nameless other organic slops and chunks. Every 4 years, the Peruvian government goes to the islands and harvests the tons and tons of guano there as a source of high-energy fertilizer. When the government first began doing so in 1940, the guano was 30 meters thick! I couldn't believe our guide when he said that, so I bade him to reiterate and I had indeed heard correctly. Seagulls sure know how to crap. Overall, despite being put off by being stuck in a giant crowd of bustling, rich tourists, we had a blast and drew some fine memories from the trip. The pictures can be seen at the link below. Plus, there are some of us leaving Cuzco and of Pisco. This city is a trip, I plan to do a full day of photos tomorrow if possible to show the destruction and former size/glory of the city. There are burned out buildings EVERYwhere.
This net café is one of the only ones here and it's getting crowded, so I'm leaving now. FIVE more days until I leave Perú. Holy jeez. Tomorrow it's off to buy a bus ticket to Lima. Bus details and further nonsense to follow. Thanks for reading, sshhh shhh shhh, it's almost over.

Outta heah,
Brad

Islas Ballestas pix:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2020326&id=1445169559&l=9a2b38a99b